Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
